Memorex CP8 TURBO UNIVERSAL REMOTE CONTROL Instrukcja Użytkownika Strona 42

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46
Fig.
3 -The author's
prototype
of
the Electronic
Bandit was
built
on a printed- circuit
board, with
the components
surface mounted
on the copper -trace
side. Shown here
are
the locations
of the
components.
PARTS
LIST
FOR
THE
ELECTRONIC
BANDIT
SEMICONDUCTORS
Dl-D3-1N914
small
signal
silicon
diode
LED1 -LED15
-Jumbo
light-
emitting
diode
U1, U3,
U5-555
oscillator :timer,
integrated
circuit
U2,
U4, U6 -4017
decade
counter
divider, integrated
circuit
RESISTORS
(All resistors
are 1/4-watt,
5%
units unless
otherwise
noted.)
R1,
R5,
R7, R11,
R13,
R17- 10,000
-ohm
R2, R8,
R14-
22,000
-ohm
R3,
R9,
R15
-4700
-ohm
R4, R10,
R16- 100,000
-ohm
R6,
R12,
R18- 15,000
-ohm
R19
-R21-
220 -ohm
CAPACITORS
C1 -C3
-1 µF, 16
-WVDC
electrolytic
C4- 10 -µF, 16
-WVDC
electrolytic
capacitor
05- 15
-µF, 16
-WVDC
electrolytic
C6-
22 -µF, 16
-WVDC
electrolytic
ADDITIONAL
PARTS
AND MATERIALS
B1 -9
-volt
transistor -radio
battery
S1-
Single -pole
single
-throw toggle
switch
S2-
Single
-pole single
-throw momentary-
contact
pushbutton
switch
Printed
circuit
or
perfboard
materials,
enclosure, IC
sockets,
battery
and
battery
holder,
wire,
solder, hard-
ware,
etc.
be soldered.
That
make mounting
the components
a
whole
lot
easier
when
the
time comes.
The components need
to be
altered (leads
bent to fit space)
for surface
mounting. Their
leads should
be pre-
tinned also. (A
complete description of
the
surface
-mounting
technique is given
in an article by Herb
Friedman
called
"SMT
Darkroom Spotmeter"
in Hands
-on
Electronics,
January,
1988.)
It's
best to solder
the LEDs
first,
then the other
compo-
nents
and then last
of all the
IC sockets.
Use tweezers
to hold
the parts
in place while
soldering.
The
tweezers,
aside from
making
the
components
easier
to handle in those
tight spaces,
also acts
as a heatsink,
preventing
component
damage
and
scorched
fingers
during soldering.
Make sure
you observe
the
correct
polarity when
soldering
the LEDs,
capacitors,
and
diodes!
Since
the
two switches
are
not mounted
on
the board.
you'll
have
to leave
them
hanging,
along with
the battery
snap,
until you
are ready
to put the
cover
of the bandit
in
place.
Make
the leads
long
enough so
that you
can mount
the
switches
before
you
close up. With
the
components
all sol-
dered
in place,
connect
a 9 -volt battery,
providing
some
means
of holding
it in
the box. (I
used
two squares
of double
-
sided
foam
tape in the
prototype.)
Mount the
two switches,
put
the ICs
in
their sockets,
then flip
the board
over
and install
the four
mounting
screws.
Flip
the power
switch
and
then press
S2 momentarily.
All
three
rows
of LEDs
should
roll and
then stop
sequentially.
Press
S2
to play
again.
If there
is any problem
with
the
operation,
it
can likely
be traced
to one
of the following:
I)
incorrect
polarity
of
component(s)
and/or
power supply
2)
accidental
solder
bridge(s)
on
the circuit
board
3) missing
jumper wire(s)
4)
faulty
IC(s).
Playing
It
In order
to be
a
winner,
you
must
end up with
the same
LED
lit in
each of the
three rows,
forming
a horizontal
row of
lights.
If you wish,
the horizontal
rows
can be marked with
different values
to indicate
different
levels of winning.
For
example:
Rows
I and
5, 3 to I payoff;
rows
2 and 4,
5 to I
payoff,
and row 3,
10 to I payoff
Even though
there's
no real
monetary
payoff, its
still
grati-
fying to know you've
beaten
the bandit
at its own game.
Try
it...You'll
like
it!
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